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| "Bette," my 1935 Singer Model 221 Featherweight |
Since my sewing machine review post on my Bernina 750QE has been so popular, I thought I'd do a similar post for my vintage Singer Model 221 Featherweight sewing machine.
I have owned two Featherweights, the 1935 issue pictured above and
another one made in 1951 pictured below that I eventually sold (my husband had been saying unhelpful things like "HOW many sewing machines do you NEED?!"). These vintage straight stitch machines are the perfect complement to my modern computerized Bernina machines.
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| "Judy," my (previous) 1951 Singer Model 221 Featherweight |
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The "Light as a Feather" Singer Model 221, Made from 1933-1957
Singer's portable Model 221 sewing machine debuted at the 1933 Chicago World’s Fair and 1.75 million of them were manufactured and sold around the world before production of this model ended in 1957. My review pertains only to these original used, vintage machines (not any of the newer reproduction Featherweight sewing machines currently on the market). For a thorough history of when different features, paint colors, etc. were introduced and which of these features impact the resale value of a particular machine, I recommend Nancy Johnson-Srebro's excellent book, Featherweight 221 - The Perfect Portable, available on Amazon here. (Please note that this post contains affiliate links).
The first thing to know when you’re
shopping for a used Featherweight is that you will not find the word “Featherweight” anywhere on an authentic machine. It may say Model 221 (earliest U.S. made machines), 221-1, 221K, 221J (light bisque/beige machines made in Britain) or, if it’s the rarer
free-arm version, Model 222K. With its new lightweight aluminum housing, the Model 221 was advertised as being "light as a feather" in contrast to the much heavier cast iron sewing machines that preceded it.
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| Vintage "Featherweight" Singer 221 Advertisement |
At first, the Singer
Featherweight was only available in glossy black with gold decals, an ornate “Egyptian” scrolled
face plate and a chromed balance wheel.
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| My 1935 Singer Model 221 Featherweight (with My Kiddo in the Background) |
The very earliest machines
(like the 1935 issue shown in most of my photos for this review) had no
markings on the stitch plate for seam allowances and did not have any numbers
on the tension dial, but when these features were introduced they were quite popular and were often retrofitted at the
owners' request. The graduated stitch plate markings (introduced in 1956)
facilitate sewing with a consistent seam width, and the numbered tension dial
(which began to appear in 1935) makes it easier to switch back and forth between different types of projects,
since you can make a note of the tension setting before you alter it and then
just set it back to the same number when you are done. Without a numbered tension dial, you would have to
adjust tension through trial and error any time you make changes. Since I only use my 1935 Featherweight for
piecing with quilting weight cotton and Aurifil cotton thread, I rarely need to adjust the tension setting at all so it’s a non-issue for me. I also prefer to use the adjustable seam cloth guide attachment on my Featherweights to maintain an accurate seam allowance. My cloth guide is a vintage Singer accessory, and you can find both vintage and high quality reproduction cloth guides here at the Featherweight Shop.
There are not nearly as many early Featherweights like mine out there without the numbered tension dial and graduated stitch plate – I only mention this so you can look for these features if they are important to you, and know that if you do find a Featherweight without numbers on the tension dial, that doesn't mean it is missing a part. (When I bought this machine, I DID think it was missing part of its tension dial!)
There are not nearly as many early Featherweights like mine out there without the numbered tension dial and graduated stitch plate – I only mention this so you can look for these features if they are important to you, and know that if you do find a Featherweight without numbers on the tension dial, that doesn't mean it is missing a part. (When I bought this machine, I DID think it was missing part of its tension dial!)
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| My 1951 Featherweight Model 221K with Numbered Tension Dial |
Singer sold a LOT of Featherweights in the 1950s, so machines from this decade are generally the
easiest ones to find in good condition and at reasonable prices.
Around 1960-1962,
the Singer Featherweight was given another modern “facelift” and was offered in
Tan/Beige as well as in Black, and later, between about 1964-1970, a funky White was introduced that has just a hint of green to it. These machines had a painted rather than
chromed face plate and no decals on the machine bed, giving them quite a different look, but they sew just as beautifully as the black ones. White and tan/beige Featherweights go for
slightly higher prices only because fewer of them were produced.
When you see
Featherweights that are bright red, orange, or metallic purple, just be aware that these are not
original factory paint jobs. Restoring and repainting Featherweights
in fanciful colors with car paint has become quite popular and it's a great way to give new life to those machines that have severe cosmetic damage and might otherwise get junked. If you purchase a
professionally restored and repainted Featherweight, expect to pay a premium
for the extensive labor involved in completely disassembling the machine,
stripping the old finish, repainting, and reassembling the machine.
Machine Specifications
· Machine Dimensions: The Singer Model 221 “Featherweight”
is an ultra-compact cutie, measuring just 15” wide by 7”
deep by 10” tall. She weighs 11 pounds 4 ounces and has
a throat depth of 5”. The little extension table on the left side
of the machine folds up for compact storage or transport. This makes the machine ideal for traveling or taking to
classes, as well as for those with limited storage space for their sewing
paraphernalia.
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| 5" Throat Space on my Singer Featherweight 221 |
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Included Presser Feet:
When buying any used sewing machine, the number of included feet and
accessories will vary quite a bit and should factor into the price you pay for
your machine. By the way, there’s no need to panic if your
Featherweight doesn’t come with an owner’s manual. The owner’s manual and service manual are
both available online as free PDF files on the Singer web site that you can
either print out or download to your favorite electronic reading device: http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals
Included Accessories and Carrying Case
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| Illustration of Original Standard Accessories in Carrying Case |
When the Featherweights
were sold as new machines, they did come with an assortment of basic
accessories such as the cloth guide, Adjustable Hemmer foot, Binder, Narrow Rolled Hemmer,
Edge Stitcher, Ruffler, Shirrer, Tucker, and perhaps a Cording/Zipper foot (only standard with the white machines), as
well as a little oil can and a couple of little screwdriver tools. Different accessories came standard with the machines in different years, and of course, just as when you purchase a used modern sewing machine, sellers will often include non-standard accessories that they purchased separately. For that reason, additional vintage Singer accessories
for these machines such as buttonhole attachments may be included with
your vintage Featherweight as well, and may justify a higher price point. Vintage Singer
presser feet and attachments were very well made and produce excellent results, but if you’re primarily
a quilter you won’t use most of them.
The Screw-Down Cloth Guide
The one vintage
Singer accessory that I use all the time on my Featherweights, and you can see
it attached to my machines in the photos, is the Cloth Guide that screws very securely right into the bed
of the machine. I love this accessory
because I can adjust its position in minute increments to achieve a perfect ¼”
or scant ¼”, or even wider for hems, and it doesn’t loosen or move from the
vibration of running the sewing machine.
If your vintage Featherweight didn't come with one of these, you can get one here from the Featherweight Shop.
Keep in mind that the Featherweights in
good cosmetic and working condition, with all of their accessories, original
manuals, original case, etc. are going to be the ones that command the highest
prices. If you’re buying a machine for
sewing and not for collecting, you can save yourself a lot of money by overlooking a little wear and tear on the finish and focusing your search on machines that don’t
come with many accessories.
The Bobbin Case
· The Singer 221 “Featherweight”
sewing machine has an all metal bobbin and bobbin case that is vertically
mounted on the left SIDE of the sewing machine (not in the front, where you
find the bobbin on most modern machines).
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| Side Mounted Vertical Bobbin Case on My 1935 Featherweight |
When shopping for a vintage Featherweight, you do want to look for one that has the ORIGINAL bobbin case
with it, stamped SIMANCO (Singer Manufacturing Company) if possible. There are reproduction bobbin cases
available, but may not work well in all of the machines. You can occasionally find
a vintage Featherweight bobbin case for sale on eBay, but they can run as much
as $80 or more – so if you’re considering purchasing a machine that is missing its original bobbin case, you should factor that into your price negotiations. If you do purchase a Featherweight without an original bobbin case, you can buy a reproduction bobbin case that is tested and guaranteed to perform well in a vintage Featherweight machine from the Featherweight Shop here.
Needles
Use new Schmetz needles in your
Featherweight for best results. Note
that the needle must be inserted SIDEWAYS on a Featherweight, with the flat
side to the LEFT, and you must thread the needle from right to left in order
for the machine to sew properly. Sometimes
you will find a Featherweight offered for sale “needing repair,” and it turns
out the only problem is that the needle is inserted incorrectly or it’s
threaded backwards, so check for this when you test-sew a machine you’re
considering purchasing. I like to use a
size 75 Schmetz Quilting needle for piecing, or a 70 Schmetz Microtex needle if I’m using a
finer thread like Aurifil Mako 50/2.
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| Needle Goes Sideways, Flat Side to Left, and Thread from Right to Left |
The Featherweight produces a beautiful, reliable straight stitch that is superior to the straight stitch on many of the most expensive modern machines, and the only way you can mess it up is if you put the needle in backwards (in which case you get perfect stitching again as soon as you fix the needle) or drop it down the stairs (in which case you might need to find another machine). There is zero learning curve with this machine, and it’s absolutely ideal for precision patchwork piecing – that’s why so many hard-core quilters own and cherish Featherweights even if they also own and enjoy high-end computerized sewing machines. It's a great machine for teaching children to sew. If you are just starting out sewing,
or wanting to make your first quilt, the Featherweight will shorten your
learning curve dramatically, eliminate the various difficulties that come into
play on multipurpose modern sewing machines, AND leave plenty of money in your
pocket for fabric, rotary cutting tools, and all the other gadgets on your
shopping list as a new quilter.
Straight Stitch Perfection, but Straight Stitch Only
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| Straight Stitch Perfection! |
The Featherweight sews forwards and
backwards, but it cannot make any sideways motion stitches. When zigzag sewing machines were first introduced,
the side-to-side needle motion of the new machines required design changes that
compromised the quality of the straight stitch slightly – a wider hole in the
stitch plate as well as relocating the bobbin from the side of the machine,
where it rotated in the same direction as the seam being sewn, to the front of
the machine, where the bobbin rotates perpendicularly to the seam line. Each straight stitch of a machine “lock
stitch” is formed by a twisting of the needle and bobbin thread between
stitches to “lock” the two threads together between the fabric layers. On the Featherweight, that twist-tug action
is exerted in the same direction as the seamline, keeping your stitches nice
and straight.
On most modern machines,
the needle and the bobbin case are both turned at 90 degree angles to the presser foot and the seamline. Consequently, the threads are tugged SIDEWAYS where the needle and bobbin threads "lock" together between each stitch, which can create an ever-so-slight
slant to the "straight" stitches no matter how perfectly balanced your tension
may be.
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| Small Needle Hole and Narrow Feed Dogs |
The feed dogs on modern sewing machines are also spaced farther apart to accommodate the 5.5 mm or 9 mm stitches. When you’re sewing ¼” patchwork seams for quilts on a modern sewing machine, your fabric is only in contact with the left feed dog at times, which makes it more difficult to feed the fabric through the machine perfectly straight, especially at the beginning and end of seams, and when dealing with little triangle points. The wider needle hole in the stitch plate of a zigzag sewing machine also has a habit of “eating” your triangle points, pulling them down into the bobbin area.
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| My Triangle Points Love Narrow Feed Dogs! |
Can you Drop the Feed Dogs?
No, you cannot lower the feed dogs on most Featherweight sewing machines
for free-motion quilting. (The feed dogs
CAN be lowered on the convertible free arm Model 222 Featherweight, but those
machines are very rare, difficult to find, and typically sell for three times
what you’d pay for a Model 221). There is a small vintage Singer accessory
called a Darning and Embroidery Plate that some quilters use to cover the feed
dogs on a Featherweight 221 for free motion quilting work.
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| Featherweight Darning and Embroidery Plate from the Featherweight Shop |
The Featherweight Shop sometimes has authentic vintage darning plates available for about $150, but they also sell a $12 reproduction darning plate modeled on the original that will work just as well. I have heard of other workarounds for doing free-motion work on a 221 without a darning plate, such as setting the stitch length to zero to render the feed dogs inoperable. However,
with only 5” of throat space to the right of the needle, the Featherweight really
does not have enough room for quilting anything other than very small projects, IMO. I have never attempted to use my vintage Featherweight machines for anything beyond patchwork piecing.
There Is No On/Off Switch!
Word of warning -- there is a toggle switch on the bed of the Featherweight machine that turns the light on and off. That switch ONLY cuts power on and off to the lightbulb. It does not cut off power to the sewing machine's motor! If your Featherweight machine is plugged into an electrical outlet, it is turned ON regardless of whether or not the light is illuminated. It's really important to unplug this machine when not in use, especially in households with curious children.
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Pros:
1.
Affordable machine for those on a budget, either as a
first/only machine or as a backup for traveling
2.
Stitch quality and reliability are equal to or superior to the most
expensive luxury machines made today
3.
This
machine has adjustable presser foot
pressure so you can adjust it to feed your fabric evenly whether you’re
sewing with sheer chiffon or heavy denim.
Shockingly, many manufacturers’ smaller, entry-level models built today
do not have this basic feature that has been around for over a hundred
years.
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| Adjustable Presser Foot Pressure on the Singer Featherweights |
4.
Very
easy to use and maintain, seldom needs
repairs. If you're even moderately mechanically inclined, you can learn to service and maintain this machine all by yourself. Even if you prefer to pay a sewing machine technician for service, it's unlikely that anything will ever go wrong that will cost very much to fix. Most parts for the Featherweights are available either vintage or reproduction at reasonable prices.
5.
This
is a solid, well-made machine, built to
outlast you AND the lucky person who gets it after you. They don’t make ‘em like they used to because
it would be so expensive to produce a machine like this today that no one could
afford to buy one, seriously. The
machines and their vintage accessories (still readily available on eBay and
from online Featherweight parts dealers) just work so beautifully for what they
were intended to do
6.
All metal construction, with no plastic parts
7.
Unbelievably
stinking cute, vintage chic machine
that will be the belle of the ball wherever she goes
8.
Extremely
lightweight and portable, easy to
tuck away and store when not in use
9.
Time traveling!
It is so cool to be sewing on a machine that was built and sold during
the Great Depression. I wonder how many
hands my machine has passed through, how many quilts, dresses, wedding gowns,
baby bonnets she has sewn. That sense of
history is part of what makes sewing on a Featherweight such a special
experience.
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Cons:
1.
No zigzag stitch.
If you’re mainly a quilter, this is not a big deal. You can also sew home dec items, crafty
items, and clothing made from woven fabrics beautifully on this machine. However, if you want to sew with knits, you
really need a zigzag stitch and this may not be the machine for you.
2.
Small throat space, can’t drop feed
dogs (unless it’s a
rare Model 222). This is a great machine
for piecing quilt tops, but it is not ideal for machine quilting them.
3.
The
built-in lighting on these machines is
pretty weak. I replaced the
incandescent bulbs on my Featherweights with this replacement LED bulb found on Amazon, and although I prefer
the safety of this cooler-running LED bulb over incandescent and the whiter light
is easier on my eyes, it’s not all that much brighter. I always use supplemental task lighting when sewing on my Featherweight.
4.
No power switch. You have to remember to unplug your Featherweight when you walk away from it!
So, Where Can I Find a Vintage Featherweight and How Much Will it Cost?
I have heard legends of collectors who
stumbled across a Singer 221 at a yard sale for $20 “back in the day,” but
that’s pretty unlikely nowadays. There
are always several Singer Featherweights listed on eBay or Craigslist, and you
might get lucky and spot one at a second-hand store. Facebook Marketplace is a good place to look, too, and there are also specialized Facebook groups for Featherweight enthusiasts and for buying and selling used sewing machines. Just keep in mind that any machine that has
been sitting unused for a long time will need to be cleaned, lubricated,
adjusted, and have its electrical wiring inspected for safety before you should sew with it, which could run you $50-100 depending on the going rates in your area. For that
reason, I recommend purchasing your
Featherweight from another quilter or from a dealer/collector like the Featherweight Shop who can service
the machine before the sale and guarantee that it's in working order, even if the initial price point is a little higher than what you might pay in a private sale.
Online Resources for Vintage Featherweight Enthusiasts
·
British Featherweight historian and conoisseur Graham Forsdyke merged his extensive web site resources with April Henry of April 1930s when he retired some years ago. The combined site The Featherweight Shop is the best resource I know of for Featherweight information, they often have vintage machines in excellent condition available for purchase, and they always carry a wide assortment of vintage and reproduction parts and accessories. Sign up for their newsletter to get fantastic tutorials and maintenance info for your vintage sewbaby.
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Larry and Carol Meeker: http://www.patented-antiques.com/Sewing_Machines_Fw.htm
To find out how old a particular Featherweight is from the serial
number on the bottom of the machine: http://www.singerco.com/support/machine-serial-numbers/double-letter
For fabulous video tutorials on how to thread your Featherweight, how
to change needles, and how to wind a bobbin: http://singerfeatherweight221.blogspot.com/2012/12/vidoes-on-how-to-use-your-singer.html
For parts, repairs and maintenance information, check out Dave McCallum's Featherweight Rx web site and blog: www.featherweight221.com
There are also LOTS of different Facebook group for Featherweight collectors and enthusiasts, some where used machines are offered for sale, any many others where you can get help with any questions or trouble shooting: https://www.facebook.com/search/groups/?q=featherweight
UPDATED 7/19/2016: I'm linking up with Val's Archive's Linky with a Featherweight theme today. Be sure to visit her post there to find even more Featherweight inspiration!
There are also LOTS of different Facebook group for Featherweight collectors and enthusiasts, some where used machines are offered for sale, any many others where you can get help with any questions or trouble shooting: https://www.facebook.com/search/groups/?q=featherweight
UPDATED 7/19/2016: I'm linking up with Val's Archive's Linky with a Featherweight theme today. Be sure to visit her post there to find even more Featherweight inspiration!
43 comments:
your singers are in pristine shape.
That straight stitch is really close to being perfect. Great info you shared.
GREAT post! So much information and the pictures are wonderful. I've been tempted, but there are already too many machines in my sewing room, and someday I'll inherit my mom's Singer 301, the big sister of the Featherweight which also sews a perfect seam. If it wasn't for that, your post could put me on the prowl for one.
This was such a fun article to read. Like you, I have a BERNINA 750QEE and two featherweights. Actually, once one is back from servicing I will own my third featherweight. I agree with everything that you mentioned and because of that I strongly recommend that people use a featherweight when doing either foundation or paper piecing. The sew, press, sew... is a perfect opportunity to use your featherweight. The motors on featherweights were never designed to be used for hours on end. Finally, I have followed Nova Montgomery for sometime, as she has a wonderful website and business devoted to featherweights. From her, I learned that there were two bobbin cases each with a different part number. If you lose your bobbin case, replace it with the exact same part number... they are not interchangable. I encourage everyone to make a note of their bobbin case number... just because. Thanks again! Lynn
Lynn, that's a great tip about the bobbin cases! That must be why the replica bobbin cases work on some Featherweights but not on others.
Chris, I’ve heard great things about the 301 as well. It’s not portable, though, is it? Of course what constitutes “portable” depends on which machines you’re comparing it to. My Bernina 750 is so big and heavy that, to me, probably any normal sized machine would seem portable in comparison. I’ve never seen a 301 in person. Is it one that needs to be mounted into a cabinet, or can you set it up on top of a table?
I just picked up a Featherweight 221 because I hear glowing reports about them. I'm having a hard time adjusting to the foot pedal and read in your blog that they have 'adjustable pressure foot pressure'. Can yu expand on that for me? I can only sew like a bat out of hell.
Hi, LindaBee! Congrats on your new Featherweight! I tried to respond to you directly but you're set to "no reply."
Presser foot pressure has nothing to do with the speed of the machine or the foot pedal that makes it go. The presser foot pressure adjustment affects how tightly the presser foot (the interchangeable piece that attaches to the needle bar) is pushing down on your fabric as it feeds through the machine. It's a setting you would adjust when you're using heavier or lighter than normal fabrics, to improve the feeding and stitch quality.
Your Featherweight should be able to sew slowly or quickly, depending on how hard you push the foot pedal. Have you had a tech look your FW over for you? That would be my first step. Second, I know some people like to use the modern electronic foot pedals for their FWs -- these are more like the foot controllers you're probably used to. April 1930s sells them, and so do lots of other FW sites. Good luck to you!
Thank you Rebecca on a comprehensive report on the featherweights. A acquired a singer 222k featherweight, it doesn't have the free arm of the 222 model. It has all its accessories and manuel plus 12 bobbins. It seems to be in working order. Is this as rare as the 222 model, and what would it be valued at?
Anonymous -- The 222K is the same thing as the 222 that I referred to. If your machine is a 222K, it is definitely convertible to a free arm. The photo in this post shows a 222K with the extension bed removed (free arm position). With the removable extension bed in place, the 222K looks very much like the 221 Featherweight.
Great post on Featherweights. Such wonderful information in one location!!
I have three featherweights - one is white and the other two are black (both with the scrolled faceplate) that I'm selling... if anyone is interested.
Thank you so much for all this great information. Of course, I've heard about Featherweights but just didn't understand much more than the fact that they were a vintage machine. When I see one or if I ever have a chance/ability to buy one, I'll have some valuable facts and information in order to evaluate the machine. Thanks again.
This is a great post with lots of very helpful info and links. THANK YOU. I've bookmarked this so I can come back to it later. I've been stalking Graham's site for awhile and need to jump on one of those white machines soon. We've exchanged emails, and he's able to convert the electrical part of the Euro machines for use in the US for an additional fee.
Rebecca Grace: Yes, the 301 is designed to be portable. It even has a built-in carrying handle. It is lightweight (though not quite as light as a 221) and can be used on a folding table. It uses the same bobbin that the 221 uses. With the separate 'cradle' attachment it can be installed in a sewing cabinet.
Love this review! One thing to add, I recently discovered that the white Featherweights are a bit different internally as well as externally to the black ones. There is a nylon gear in there, and it has a belt inside as well as outside, as opposed to being shaft driven inside. They are nice looking, but perhaps not quite as great quality as the black ones, IMHO. I love Featherweights, there are currently 7 in my house!
Thanks, Angela! I am aware of that design change with the white Featherweights, but the experts out there concur that it does NOT compromise the quality of the machine and the internal belt even makes the white FW sew quieter than the gear-driven black and beige predecessors: http://www.featherweight221.com/fwrx/blog/blog.php?id=2360758204483780159
Thank you for a very detailed descriptions of the Featherweights!
I am the new owner of a featherweight 221, which I LOVE! Only one problem: when I raise the presser foot the upper tension does not release. Any suggestions? Thanks!
Congratulations on your new-to-you Featherweight, Randi! Unlike more modern machines, the Featherweight doesn't automatically stop with the needle completely up or down. After you finish a seam, check that the takeup lever is in the highest position and if not, rotate the handwheel towards you until it is. Then you can pull your work free from the machine without resistance. It's not designed to automatically release tension when the presser foot is raised. I hope that helps!
Great article! I have had 6 Featherweights in the past and currently have a black, white, and a custom blue one with flames! I am interested in selling my precious white one named snowflake as I really don't need three; I have 3 Berninas as well-930, 440, and 820.
If you are interested, email me privately. This machine is in very good condition, recently serviced and comes with attachments. Only thing wrong is the handle on the case was missing when I bought it, so I looped a belt to compensate.
Can you tell me what needles the 221-1 feather weight uses? thanks!
Use Schmetz needles in your Featherweight for best results.
Singer actually made 4 colors of Featherweights. Besides the black, white and tan ones the rarest of them all is the crinkle or godzilla finish. They don't come up for sale very often and usually go for about the same amount as a 222.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=Singer+221&_sop=3
Cari Pease
Thanks for this review. You have taught me a lot about my machine - including the very critical information about the cloth guide - I had no idea what this was about. Thorough job and well written.
Quick question: Can a singer featherweight sew through clothing leather?
I've never tried sewing leather with my Featherweights. Most home sewing machines can sew through very lightweight glove leather (using an appropriate leather needle), but it would take more of an industrial upholstery machine to stitch through thick handbag or upholstery leather. Sometimes I see sellers advertising the Singer Featherweight -- or pretty much ANY vintage machine as an "industrial machine," but that's not really the case. The Featherweight was primarily conceived and marketed for home seamstresses making clothing, never for industrial use. However, it shouldn't hurt to try.
My mother gave me a Featherweight for my 16th birthday (in 1980). She paid $25 for it. She bought it from a man whose wife had left him, and he was selling all her stuff. True story.
What a great article. As a Featherweight collector I enjoy what other people have to say about them. Unfortunately I now have 27 sewing machines and still look for more. The Featherweights sew beautifully and are addictive.
Mary Ann
You mentioned that I can't see knits on my featherweight. Are there other fabrics I should avoid? I love my little machine!
Well, I hate to say you CAN'T sew knits at all on a Featherweight... It's a straight-stitch only machine, though, and a straight stitch doesn't stretch with a knit fabric. Having said that, there ARE vintage attachments that allow vintage Singer machines, including the Featherweights, to somehow sew zigzags and other decorative stitches. You can find them for sale on eBay sometimes, and sometimes April 1930s has them on her Featherweight site. I'm not personally familiar with these attachments, but they must work by moving your FABRIC from side to side during stitching rather than the needle moving from side to side, because the Featherweights are engineered in such a way that the needle cannot move sideways without striking the bobbin and hook race.
I just purchased a featherweight.... I didn't see that the wheel had a gold like glue that was used it looks like to hold a broken bobbin winder or dropped or something... it seems to sew good... is this going to effect the machines performance?
Hi, Kathy. It's hard to say without seeing your machine. If you're concerned, it's worth having a sewing machine technician take a look at it. Is it too late to return the machine, or to negotiate a discount due to the undisclosed damage/repair?
Thank you for all this information. I make t-shirt quilts. Would a Featherweight work well for this?
Thank you for all this information. I make t-shirt quilts. Would a Featherweight work well for this?
Hi, Deb. The Featherweight wouldn't be my own first choice for a T-shirt quilt, only because T-shirts are knits. My modern Bernina machine has differential feed to reduce the chance of wavy, stretching seams. If you are stabilizing the T-shirts to prevent or reduce stretching, you might be okay piecing them on a Featherweight. A walking foot would help on a Featherweight, too. Thanks for stopping by!
Hi Deb...I hope more people stop by from Tuesday Archives as your post is such an informative read!!! (Oh....how I'd love to have that little ladybug one!!!) :) :)Thank you for writing this post...I bookmarked it for future reference. :)
Excelente, gracias por compartir
I have an older Singer machine from 1928 that no longer works but has lots of attachments. I recently purchased a 1948 Model 221 and was wondering if you know if Singer attachments are interchangeable. Or, if not, if you could tell me how I might find the answer to that question.
Debbie, the Featherweight attachments work on all of the low, vertical shank Singer Sewing Machines (i.e. 15, 27, 28, 66, 99, 185, 127, 128, 192 Spartan, 201, 206, 221, 222, 237, 306, 319, 320, 328). If your 1928 machine is one of those models, you should be good to go.
I have had my great grandmothers old singer 221 for several years now and I have never gotten it out of the box until today. I had no idea how to use it or even how to thread it. I have many times thought about how handy it would be, what fun I could have with it, and imagined all the neat things I could make. It definitely was not going to be easy to find someone to teach me. As my mom nor grandma never sewed a stich in there life and I didn't know anyone who had. So what does one do in this predicament this day in age? Yup you got it. Ask Google. So that's what I did. Out of all the photos, articles, videos, and blogs about sewing machines I thought the photo you posted closest resembled my great grandmother's machine. So I clicked on it hoping only to learn how to thread it. I now have a new respect for that old singer. Your article taught me so much more than I ever even knew I wanted to know. Thanks for taking the time to help out us dumbies. I still don't know how to use it but I now know that I am for sure going to learn. And I no longer plan on imagining how awesome it would be. I just wanted to thank you for inspiring me to try something new. I'm super excited.
I'm reading this great review of Featherweight history and use for the second time in as many years. My Featherweight has been drafted into being my primary machine for the time being since my electronic babies are out of commission at the moment. Got to say you've covered it all and I only have two things to update/add. The first is that April's is now The Singer-Featherweight Shop.com (your existing links do re-direct to the new site)and they are still the great supplies and information resource that you identified them to be.
I also highly recommend Dave McCallum's book "The Featherweight 221 and I" for those looking to maintain or put a machine that hasn't been used in a while back in service. It helped me get my 221 up and running two years ago and I am keeping it close by to refer to as I need to keep it running smoothly with the current daily use. Thanks again for a great and informative post. Going to check out your embroidered bag post next!
Thanks so much for this Featherweight blog. I was searching to find advice about the possibility of sewing stretch fabrics on my beloved 221. I appreciate your clarity. AND I just ordered a vintage cloth guide on your recommendation. Will help with my aging eyes and not so steady hands.
How much is it worth
It’s worth whatever a buyer is willing to pay. Prices vary wildly depending on demand and affluence in your area, as well as the condition and rarity of your particular machine and its features. Having the original unaltered carrying case with unbroken handles and latches, original bobbin case and accessories will command much higher prices than machines with missing case/accessories or a “restored” or refinished case. Scratches in the bed of the machine and worn decorative decals negatively impact resale value, and nonworking machines with heavy wear/damage will be most difficult to sell.
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